Electric and hybrid car buying guide

Be clear about the type of car

A battery-electric vehicle (BEV) runs only on electricity and needs plugging in. A full hybrid uses an engine and motor but is not plugged in. A plug-in hybrid (PHEV) can run some trips on electricity if you charge it regularly; once its battery is low it uses fuel. Check which type the advert actually describes.

Write down your weekly miles, longest regular return trip and where the car will park overnight. If you cannot charge at home or work, look up nearby public chargers and prices before you assume an EV will be cheaper or convenient.

• Check access to a reliable charger, not just the number on a map.
• Get an insurance quote for the exact car.
• For a PHEV, decide honestly how often you will plug it in.

Treat advertised range as a comparison figure

Official range is measured under standard conditions. Motorway speed, cold weather, hills, heating and load can reduce the distance you get. Plan your longest normal trip with a reserve rather than assuming you can use every advertised mile.

Battery capacity is measured in kWh and efficiency is often expressed as miles per kWh. Ask for the usable battery capacity and check whether a quoted figure is for the same battery version. The range shown on the dashboard is an estimate based partly on recent use; it is not proof of battery condition.

Try your longest normal journey on paper

Suppose a used EV has 60 kWh of usable battery and, on a cold motorway trip, you estimate 2.5 miles per kWh. That gives about 150 miles from full to empty. If you want to arrive with 20% charge left, the planning distance is about 120 miles. A 120-mile return trip would be too close for comfort without a charging stop. These are example numbers, not a prediction for a particular car.

Repeat the calculation using the battery version you are considering and a cautious efficiency estimate for your route. Check a route planner for likely charging stops, then check the actual charger's connector, price, access hours and current status. Have a second charging option in case the first is occupied or out of service.

• Write down your longest regular return trip, including any detour.
• Allow for cold weather, motorway speed and a sensible arrival reserve.
• Check the stop you would actually use, not just a charger icon on a map.

Check how and where you will charge

Confirm whether a home chargepoint can be installed at your property and get an installation quote before buying. Check the car's AC charging limit for home and destination charging, and its DC rapid-charging capability for long journeys. A charger advertised at a high power will not make the car charge faster than the car allows.

Public charging prices, availability and payment methods vary. Check the networks on the routes you actually use and do a sample trip plan. Ask which charging cables come with the car; replacing a missing cable can add cost. Grant eligibility changes, so check the current government scheme before budgeting for installation.

Used-EV viewing checklist

Do the usual DVLA, MOT, paperwork and condition checks first. Then work through these EV-specific items at the car. If the seller cannot demonstrate charging, arrange a check before paying rather than assuming it works.

Ask for battery-health evidence from the manufacturer or a qualified specialist where available. The range shown on the dashboard changes with recent driving and weather; it is not a battery-health report.

• Inspect the charge port, flap, cable plugs and any charging warning messages.
• Ask the seller to start an AC charge; check DC rapid charging too if practical.
• Confirm which cables and adapters are included and put them on the order form.
• Request battery-health evidence and check what was measured and when.
• Read the battery warranty for this VIN: time, mileage, capacity threshold, exclusions and transfer rules.
• Ask whether an older car has a separate battery lease or other ongoing payment.
• Check tyres, brakes, underbody, service records and outstanding recalls.

Work out your own charging cost

Use a weekly mileage figure and a realistic miles-per-kWh estimate for the car. Weekly miles divided by miles per kWh gives the approximate energy used while driving. Allow a little more electricity for charging losses, then split the total between the charging you expect to do at home and in public.

Multiply each share by the price per kWh you would actually pay. For example, 150 miles at 3 miles per kWh uses about 50 kWh on the road. At an illustrative 25p per kWh that is £12.50; at an illustrative 70p per kWh it is £35, both before charging losses or session fees. Replace those example prices with your own tariff and the public chargers you would use.

• Weekly miles ÷ realistic miles per kWh = approximate driving energy.
• Home kWh × your home tariff + public kWh × public price = estimated charging bill.
• Add any charger installation, subscription or session fees, plus insurance, tax, servicing and tyres.

Check grants and tax before you commit

A grant shown for a new eligible car does not automatically apply to a used one. Home chargepoint grants also depend on the property and applicant. Check eligibility before including any grant in your budget.

Vehicle tax rules and rates can change. Look up the exact registration and current rules instead of relying on an old advert or a general claim that electric cars pay no tax.